First of all let us congratulate you on becoming one of the few owners of our top kit - the all-composite Katana S.
We designed this plane in cooperation with Sebastiano Sivestri (TOC pilot) from Italy. Thanks to his knowledge and our usage of „hi-tech“ manufacturing technology in production, you have got a real thoroughbred aerobatic special on your hands
As such, it can be ranked to the top of giant models category.
As you will see, there is minimum work with the airplane. Also its assembly and/or dismantling is quick and effective. Because we assume you are not a beginner in model airplane building, you surely have your procedures and gimmicks, how to finish the model. Because all forced and main formers have been installed, your work shall consist only of the radio equipment and the engine installation. For your imagination and eventually for inspiration you can find a series of photos with details from various stages of assembly on the CD.
Before you start exploring the photos, please read this text cautiously. You’ve got a real modeling jewel and so it is necessary to learn certain rules for its assembly and usage.

IMPORTANT: This is for those of you, who already have other type of Katana from any other manufacturer.
ATTENTION – OUR KIT IS VERY DIFFERENT, so prior to making „automatically“ a hole somewhere, or stick something in, make sure that it does have the required
effect !!

Many beautiful flights and happy landings from
the manufacturing team of the company

KRILL Model

Guide for assembly and composition:

FUSELAGE
The fuselage is de-aerated sandwich with all the bulkheads, formers and inside structure already installed. There are no further reinforcements needed. Install radio equipment and engine accessories advisedly. Think of the fact, that every further glueing and additional parts will increase final weight of the airplane.
You can find some ideas in the photo gallery and, for that purpose, you can make a selection from our accessories offer.

Muffler and cooling openings have to be strengthen by gluing carbon fiber rowing from inside or gluing a plywood support. (see picture)!!!

Rudder servos tray
Make the tray for the rudder servo according to the size and type. For mounting we recommend to place one side against the already installed former underneath the canopy and for the other side to make a new one
(template SM2). The holder system should be very compact with respect to their strength ( min. 130 lbs !)
We recommend to glue this unit at the end of final assembly, – AFTER the rough check of the „centre of gravity“ has been made.

Engine exhaust
If you intend to install regular canister mufflers, just follow your proven method of installing.
If you decide to use a tuned exhaust, under no circumstances cut or remove any part of landing gear plate!!!!! It would make this part of the fuselage VERY weak!!!
Don’t forget to make an opening on the bottom of the fuse just behind a main spar to let the hot air out. This can be done either with Dremel tool or a sharp X-acto blade. Smooth the edges with a fine sandpaper and then glue carbon roving on inside around the holes.CA glue works best for this.

Fuel tank
Gas tank and if you wish to use “smoke” tank, should be mounted in the center of gravity, either above or bellow the main spar. Install the tank according to its shape and your custom practices.

Firewall
3/8” thick aircraft plywood glued behind the fiberglass is strong enough for installation of any engine and/or engine mount. It’s very solid.
However, if for any reason you have to make an opening for tuned pipes bellow the firewall, make sure you glue some carbon tow roving around the edges from inside the fuselage. This will ensure that sandwich structure will stay as strong as before.
Please have a look at CD documentation.
Also make sure that openings are only as large as they need to be!!!

Cowl - 6x screw M4
It’s recommended to use 6 screws M4 supplied with the airplane. Make sure it’s perfectly matched with canopy and fuselage.
First attach canopy hatch to fuselage using a masking tape, then place cowl on fuselage and check if the cowl fits. There might be some sanding required to assure perfect fit between cowl and fuselage.(i.e. cowl might look like it’s too long)
In the front, just above air intakes, we do recommend to glue 2 pieces of ply, about 1”x2”, ¼” thick for 2 screws for attaching canopy frame. Please have a look at photo on CD.

Tail wheel - 2x wood screw M4
Everything is prepared for you and all you have to do is install supplied tail wheel assembly using 3 wood screws M4.We do recommend to use 2 spring coils for it’s control.

THE CANOPY HATCH - 6x laminate CNC canopy hold downs, 6x screw M4
This system has been tested. It is fully functional and is very simple.
With respect to its size we recommend to follow these steps:
1. Mark all the canopy hatch hold down positions with a pencil and mill out all of them. Please refer to CD for a proper positions.
2. Openings in canopy hatch should be as tight as possible, so that hold downs don’t fall out.
3. Cut the openings in the fuselage a bit longer and wider, BUT CAUTION SHOULD BE PAID, THAT their front edge matches precisely to the edge of CNC laminate canopy hold down (see CD)!!!
4. Measure precisely the canopy hatch thickness on the fuselage and according to this insert and glue in 6 pcs CNC canopy holders into the cabin frame.
5. Insert the two remaining CNC hold downs (brown) for M4 screws into the rear openings of the cabin frame. Measure up the horizontal and vertical axis in the most precise way and transfer them on to the fuselage and then drill the holes. The CNC hold downs must be pointed forward with it’s slanted edge!!
6. When you are happy with fitting, use some slow drying epoxy, apply it to canopy hold downs, position canopy to it’s place on fuselage and secure it with a masking tape. Then screw in all the screws and let it dry in this position. This will assure a perfect fit for canopy hatch and fuselage.
You have two ways of securing the canopy frame with engine cowl:
A: use a method of two wooden dowels glued into a canopy frame and fitting in two holes in the cowl.
B: Drill two holes inside air intakes through the canopy holder, using
2 screws with blind nuts. This method is recommended by us.

LANDING GEAR - 3x screw M6, 3x blind nut M5, 3 x plywood insert, 2 x shaft + nut M8 , 1 pair of wheels
First drill three holes (3/16”) for attachment of the landing gear to the fuselage.
Take three round plywood washers and press blind nuts into them. These three screws are enough for attaching the landing gear!! Glue in the washers with nuts from inside of the fuselage to the landing gear bulkhead. Make sure there is no glue on threads!!
After setting the landing gear in, install landing gear fillets. They are glued directly on to a landing gear with silicone or a polyurethane glue.
Install wheel pants using your favorite method.
Our recommendation: use large washers together with 3 screws holding landing gear in place. This helps to distribute loads during harsh landings.

RUDDER - 1 pair of CNC fiberglass control horns.
Spot for installing control horn is marked and you it can also be found by putting a flashlight tightly against rudder. There is a balsa wood glued in place for support.
Assembly and removal is very easy, using 3mm brass tube.
ATTENTION!!!!!!
This brass tube MUST be secured (taped over) with a fiberglass tape, to prevent it coming out of it’s position during flight!!! See photo!!

WING
Has been already matched with the fuselage. Securing wings with the fuselage is done with 4 screws.

Servos installation – 4pcs of plywood plates, 8pcs of plywood balks, 26pcs screws for wood, 12 pcs of CNC laminate levers
The openings for servos are already prepared. Sand the plywood plates so they will fit into those openings. Measure up the servos positions, so that the output shaft of the servo is in the middle of plywood plate. Glue the plywood balks onto the bottom side of the plate and from the outside secure with one wood screw. Then in the outer corners of the plate drill the holes for four screws.
There are marked spots in the ailerons for milling the slots for CNC f/g horns. Always 1 pair for one servo. You can also use other control horn system. In each marked spot there is a balsa block of approx. 4x4 cm
(1 ½” x 1 ½”).
Very important is the system of the wings slipping-on...
The wing is a fiberglass sandwich, therefore you should hold it during slipping-on at its leading edge and/or a carbon wing spar. DO NOT EVER PUSH and/or hit on the wing tips !!! Perform the final matching of the wings to fuselage with both-hands pulling on the wing spar from inside of the fuselage. The removal should be done in the same way.

ASSEMBLING and SECURING the wings
Securing wings to the fuselage is done by using 4 x M6 screws from inside the fuselage into a wing root.
Front ones should be drilled precisely, back ones can have a larger hole.
Wings should be set up at 0 degrees, but it can be fine tuned later after few flights.
For this reason we supply 2 round 7mm plywood washers. Put a double sided tape on them and place them into fuselage. This set up is fine for few flights and gives you chance to adjust wing incidence. When satisfied, just drop some CA glue around the edges of wood washers. And you are done!!
Simple and precise set-up. See CD for detailed photos.

!Before flying, make sure all the screws are tightened all the way in!

ELEVATOR
Installation of servos and control horns is done same way as with the wings.
It’s recommended to drill holes from the bottom of elevator, about 10mm (3/8”) from the end of tube and use 3mm (6-32) screw to secure elevator from coming apart. We have installed small piece of balsa wood inside to prevent crushing elevator skin. It can be seen through servo bay opening.
Warning-never drill these holes right onto half rib, that supports elevator tube at the end!

PAINT AND DECALS
You can spray any kind of color and use any stickers you wish on this model. We do not recommend to use any iron on materials, because that could damage airplane strength and finish.
Choose your colors wisely. We also do not recommend spraying the model with dark colors (black etc.) because the model is all-laminate. By the way – this rule is followed with real planes as well. Due to an intensive sunshine, dark colors will get 3 times hotter and that could have negative affect on some parts of the plane. This also applies for transport and storage of this plane.
For this reason a white airplane cover should be used in hot weather!

TRANSPORT, STORING AND CARRYING AIRPLANE AROUND
Store and/or transport the model always well protected against “hangar rush”. The fuselage can be left on it’s wheels, wings should have covers on during storage. Storage place should be dry and have room temperature.
On flying field, always pull airplane around by holding onto a tail wheel or a prop.
Keep in mind that taking care of the airplane will extend it’s life!!

BASIC SAFETY RULES AT THE MODEL OPERATION
- MAKE A PRE-FLIGHT PREPARATION BEFORE EACH FLIGHT e.g.
CHECK ALL PARTS OF THE MODEL.
- Pay special attention if children are present. They should not be around, specially if the engine is running.
- Flying should be done only at designated flying fields.
- Do not forget to turn off radio equipment and ignition right after each flight.
After finishing the flights, e.g. before the transport and storing the airplane, pump all the remaining gasoline out.

KRILL.B.P,s r.o. is not responsible for any damages caused by using this model airplane. Model airplane owner is using it on his own responsibility.

SET THE THROWS ACCORDING TO YOUR RECOMMENDATION